Of weekends away, grandmothers and the Far East
Hello everyone, this is Owen and this is my podcast for Friday 19th June, 2015. I hope you are all well and healthy. It's been a hot and fabulous month in Kunming. The rain hasn‘t arrived yet. Every day has been beautifully sunny and clear. When it gets hot and sunny in China, you see a lot of funny things. One of them is rather fat, middle-aged men. When it's hot a lot of them pull their t-shirts up to their chests to cool their hot stomachs. And you often see them walking in the streets showing off their naked, fat bellies. In Beijing this is very common. We call it “the Beijing bikini“. Then there are the women who look like ducks. Because they don't want to be exposed to the sun, they wear funny masks. Light skin is considered more beautiful than tanned skin here. Lots of women are very careful and walk around with umbrellas. Especially in Kunming where the sun is very bright. But there are some women who not only carry an umbrella but also wear special face masks. To make sure that you can breathe the masks are made of two pieces of fabric. The top piece covers the nose and looks a bit like the beak [1] of a duck. Some women are extra careful and have an umbrella and a face mask and also a pair of gloves, a hat and sunglasses. I always think they must get very hot. Today I'll be talking about a short trip Vittoria and I took, a birthday I attended and a book I have just finished reading.
Living in a city is nice and getting out of the city for a weekend is even better. Although Kunming is a large city, it's surprisingly easy to get out of the city. So a few weeks ago Vittoria and I decided to do just that and go away for the weekend. There's a lake just south of Kunming - called Fu Xian - that we had heard was very nice. We caught a bus there and then rented bikes. After enjoying a big lunch of stir-fried [2] cauliflower [3], a tomato and tofu dish and beef broth [4], we set off on our bikes. The distance around the lake is about 90 kilometres. We thought that would be perfect for a two-day trip. What we didn't consider was what the bikes would be like. Unfortunately, the saddles were really uncomfortable. It was great to begin with. The road was beautiful and the views spectacular. The road was right next to the lake. Every 10 or so kilometres we passed small villages on the lake with sand beaches. We didn't want to leave ourselves too many kilometres for the second day, so we kept cycling without making too many stops. It was quite painful though. The saddles were so hard and uncomfortable, we could barely sit on them. Luckily it was quite flat and there was very little traffic on the road. We brought our tent [5] with us and we were looking out for a good camping spot along the way. It's actually illegal to camp by the lake. There are big signs everywhere with all the things you're not supposed to do: no camping, no barbecues, no washing and no washing of cars in the lake. So we decided to wait until the sun had set until we put up our tent. That also gave us time to find a nice place for dinner first. We stopped in a little village and found a restaurant with a beautiful view of the lake and the setting sun. We ordered fish and shrimp. Both had been freshly caught in the lake. Although it was painful for us to sit, we really enjoyed the dinner and the view. We then found a nice spot [6] right on the lake to camp for the night. People say it's one of the cleanest lakes in China. We took advantage [7] of that by going for a quick swim. It was very cold but wonderfully refreshing. The next day we still had quite a way to go. The first hour on the bike was really tough and it didn't really get easier. The perfect weather and the beautiful scenery helped us through it though. But by the time we made it around the whole lake, we promised ourselves no more bikes ever again. Or at least no more bikes without comfortable saddles.
The other day I was invited to a friend's birthday party. The plan for the evening was a big dinner followed by karaoke. The birthday boy had made a reservation at his favourite restaurant. He told me that the food was delicious, like home-cooked food. A big group of us met up and then we walked into a large apartment block. We took the lift to the 14th floor and walked into an apartment. All the apartments on that floor were either restaurants or tattoo parlours [8]. I found out [9] then that people open restaurants in apartments in order to avoid having to get all the proper [10] licences for a proper restaurant. The food and the atmosphere was very nice, very homely. After the dinner we went to KTV, which is the name Chinese use for karaoke. KTV is pretty popular and KTV places are generally quite posh and fancy [11]. As with all KTV places, you get your own private room. It had a beautiful marble table in the middle with black leather sofas around three sides of it facing a big flat screen TV. Next to it there was a little stage with a microphone for people to perform on. They were all singing Chinese ballads, getting drunk and having a good time. We also had a cake for the birthday boy. He blew out the candles and then it was time for a short speech [12]. The Chinese love giving speeches. Because there were a few foreigners there he wanted to give the speech in English. His English is OK but he was a little drunk and emotional. He spoke about friendship and thanked us all for being there. At the end of his speech he took a deep breath, put his hand on his chest, looked down and said: 'I'm very sorry but my grandma is a shit.' Suddenly it went very quiet. I glanced nervously at the others in the room. Why would he say something bad about his grandmother on his birthday? I just hoped that this wasn't the start of some horrible story about his childhood. He looked at us and repeated: ‘I'm really sorry but my grandma is a shit.‘ After a rather awkward moment, we realised that he wasn't apologising for his poor grandmother but that he was actually trying to apologise for his poor English grammar!
I would now like to tell you about a book I read. It's called 'A fortune-teller [13] told me: Earth-bound travels in the Far East' and it was written by Tiziano Terzani. He was an Italian writer and journalist. After studying Chinese language and culture, he moved to the Far East in 1971 to work as a journalist. He lived in Beijing for a number of years until he got kicked out by the Chinese government. On a visit to Hong Kong in 1976 a fortune-teller told him: ‘Beware! You run a grave risk of dying in 1993. You mustn't fly that year. Don't fly, not even once.‘ Seventeen years later he took the warning seriously. He didn't fly for the whole year. And this book is a travel book about that year. At the time he was working as a correspondent for Der Spiegel in the Far East. He had to travel a lot for work and he also had to visit his mother in Italy that year. And he did it all without flying. Throughout the year he visited most countries in South-East Asia and also crossed China in order to catch the Trans-Siberian train to Europe. He also looked up a fortune-teller in every city he passed through. The book is full of his impressions of East Asia and especially the changes he saw happening over the years he lived there. It's a very interesting book and a great reminder that you don't have to fly in order to see the world.
Before I go, I'd like to thank you very much for all the comments you left on the website. Guy wrote a question about Chinese characters. He asked how children learn to write Chinese characters. Well, children first learn pinyin. Pinyin is the system of writing Chinese using the Latin alphabet, so children actually learn to write the alphabet before they learn to write any characters. They then learn to write characters. Quite simply, they memorise them by copying them. The teacher will show them the correct stroke order, which means which line to write first, second and so on. The students copy the character and then they write it again and again and again. It helps that Chinese characters are made up of components. So by recognising a part of a character you know the general meaning of a character. For example that it is a person, a building or in some way related to water. Children learn all the components as they learn new characters. Now, Chinese with a university education know between 6000 and 8000 characters. However, to read a newspaper you need to know between 2000 and 3000 characters. Most words, though, are made up of a combination of two or more characters. For example, the word computer is made up of the character for ‘electricity' and the character for ‚brain'. Thank you very much for listening. You can listen to all our podcasts by downloading our app or by visiting our website. I wish you all a nice month. Gerry will be back in two weeks. I'll be talking to you again on 17th July. Remember to visit our website www.podclub.ch to leave a comment or question. Thanks again! Bye.
Glossaire: Owen in China [1] beak: a bird's mouth
[2] stir-fried: cooked quickly in hot oil
[3] cauliflower: a white vegetable similar to broccoli
[4] broth: a clear soup
[5] tent: a place to sleep that you can put up yourself
[6] spot: a particular place
[7] to take advantage: to make the most of
[8] tattoo parlour: a shop where you can get a tattoo
[9] to find out: to discover a piece of information
[10] proper: here: right, correct
[11] fancy: made to look impressive or important
[12] speech: when someone speaks to a group of people
[13] fortune-teller: someone who tells you what will happen in the future