The Rise And Fall Of Juicy Couture ||||||时尚设计 Der Aufstieg und Fall von Juicy Couture Auge y declive de Juicy Couture L'ascension et la chute de Juicy Couture L'ascesa e la caduta di Juicy Couture ジューシークチュールの栄枯盛衰 쥬시 꾸뛰르의 흥망성쇠 Powstanie i upadek Juicy Couture A ascensão e queda da Juicy Couture Взлет и падение Juicy Couture Juicy Couture'ün Yükselişi ve Düşüşü Зліт і падіння соковитої моди Juicy Couture 的兴衰 Juicy Couture 的興衰

Irene Kim: Juicy Couture was an iconic part |||高级时装|||标志性的| |||Couture||||

of early 2000s fashion.

Its velour tracksuits and matching oversized bags |天鹅绒|天鹅绒运动服||配套的|| |Velours|Trainingsanzüge|||übergroß| 天鹅绒运动服和配套的超大包包

were everything and everywhere.

But Juicy went from making $605 million in sales

at its peak in 2008

to being sold for less than a third of that

five years later.

So, what happened?

Juicy's story begins with these two ladies, Juicy||||||

Gela Nash-Taylor and Pamela Skaist-Levy. |||和||| Gela|||||Skaist|Levy Gela Nash-Taylor 和 Pamela Skaist-Levy。

They met while working at a Los Angeles boutique in 1988. ||||||||精品店| ||||||||Boutique| 1988 年，他们在洛杉矶一家精品店工作时相识。

When Nash-Taylor became pregnant,

she couldn't find any fashionable maternity clothing. |||||孕妇装| |||||Mutterschaft| 她找不到任何时尚的孕妇装。

As a solution, she started making maternity pants ||||||Mutterschaft|hosen

out of her husband's jeans, which inspired her

and Skaist-Levy to start a maternity clothing line,

Travis Jeans for the Baby in You. Travis 牛仔裤适合您心中的宝宝。

The pair's stylish maternity jeans took off, |这对的||||| |des Paares|stylische|||| 这对时尚的孕妇牛仔裤脱颖而出，

despite their $89 price tag. |||价格标签

By the early 1990s,

it expanded into a full maternity line. 该产品系列现已扩展至完整的孕妇用品系列。

But around 1994, after feeling like

they lost touch with the maternity market, 他们与孕妇用品市场失去了联系，

the pair decided to pivot to something new: ||||转变方向||| ||||wechseln|||

developing the perfect luxury V-neck shirt. |||奢华||| 开发完美的奢华 V 领衬衫。

Nash-Taylor and Skaist-Levy focused on four things:

fit, fabric, comfort, and color. 合身度、面料、舒适度和颜色。

They both tried on their samples |||||样品 他们都试穿了样品

to make sure the V-neck covered the right part of the arm, 确保 V 领遮住手臂的右侧，

didn't plunge too deep, |猛跌|| |tauchen|| 没有陷得太深，

and, overall, made your body look as good as possible,

things male designers fitting T-shirts on size 0 models 男设计师为 0 号模特试穿 T 恤

maybe weren't taking into consideration. ||||Berücksichtigung 也许没有考虑到。

After perfecting their design, |Vervollständigung|| 在完善设计之后，

they released it in 26 colors

under their new label, Juicy Couture. 并冠以新品牌 Juicy Couture 的名义。

When Juicy first started in 1995,

the economy was beginning to recover 经济开始复苏

from the 1990 to 1991 recession, |||衰退 从 1990 年至 1991 年的经济衰退开始，

and consumers were hungry for expensive,

or at least expensive-sounding, products. ||||听起来| 或者至少是听起来很昂贵的产品。

So Nash-Taylor and Skaist-Levy 因此 Nash-Taylor 和 Skaist-Levy

wanted the brand name to convey luxury. |||||传达| |||||vermitteln| 希望品牌名称能够传达奢华的气息。

They also loved the irony of naming ||||讽刺意味|| 他们也喜欢命名的讽刺意味

their casual T-shirt line "couture." |||||时尚 他们的休闲T恤系列“couture”。

Juicy Couture quickly grew in popularity

and expanded to include knit tops, ||||针织|上衣 并扩展到针织上衣，

accessories, and a successful Juicy Jeans line. Accessoires|||||| 配饰以及成功的 Juicy Jeans 系列。

But it wasn't the full-fledged lifestyle brand |||||成熟的|| |||||ausgereifte|| 但它并不是成熟的生活方式品牌

its founders wanted it to be...yet. 它的创始人希望它能成为...现在。

Nash-Taylor and Skaist-Levy looked to the brands ||||||||brands Nash-Taylor 和 Skaist-Levy 关注品牌

they grew up with during the '60s and '70s for ideas. 他们成长于 60 年代和 70 年代，并在那里积累了不少经验。

Both thought terry cloth was ||毛巾|| ||Tuch|handtuch| 他们都认为毛巾布是

"the most amazing 1970s fabric" “20 世纪 70 年代最令人惊叹的面料”

and came up with a line of tops and bottoms made from it. |||||||||Unterteile||| 并设计出一系列由它制成的上衣和裤子。

The silhouette of what would become |轮廓|||| 未来的轮廓

Juicy's signature tracksuit was created |签名运动服|运动服|| ||Trainingsanzug|| Juicy 的标志性运动服诞生

with the same purpose as the original Juicy V-neck: 与原版 Juicy V 领的用途相同：

to be as flattering as possible. |||奉承的|| |||schmeichelnd|| 尽可能地讨人喜欢。

The zip-up hoodie was designed with front pockets |||连帽衫||||| |||Kapuzenshirt|||||Taschen 这款拉链连帽衫采用前袋设计

to hide any stomach pooch ||||小肚子 |verstecken||Bauch|Wölbung 隐藏肚子上的赘肉

and cut with an hourglass shape to nip in your waist. ||||沙漏|||收紧|||腰 ||||Sanduhr|Form||schnüren||| 并采用沙漏形状进行剪裁，以收紧腰部。

Nash-Taylor and Skaist-Levy also added custom hardware: ||||||||硬件 Nash-Taylor 和 Skaist-Levy 还添加了定制硬件：

a J-pull zipper that branded every tracksuit |||Reißverschluss|||| 每件运动服上都有 J 形拉链

as uniquely Juicy Couture. 如同 Juicy Couture 一样独一无二。

The tracksuit bottoms were originally made |Trainingsanzug|||| 运动裤最初是

with an underwear elastic, |||松紧带 用内衣松紧带，

but when that proved to be too loose, 但当事实证明这种限制太过宽松时，

Juicy's founders switched to a quick cord ||||||绳子 Juicy 的创始人改用快速电源线

they'd used for their maternity line. 她们将其用于孕妇装系列。

It worked perfectly. |funktionierte|

Juicy Couture released its now iconic tracksuits in 2001,

and they became a phenomenon. 它们成为一种现象。

Not to mention, at $155, nicht||| Ganz abgesehen davon, für 155 $. 更不用说，售价 155 美元，

Juicy Couture's tracksuits weren't cheap, |Couture||| Die Trainingsanzüge von Juicy Couture waren nicht billig, Juicy Couture 的运动服并不便宜，

but they were accessible. aber sie waren zugänglich. 但它们是可以访问的。

Julia DiNardo: The price point was a little bit high |DiNardo||||||||

for essentially a glorified sweatshirt, |||华丽的|卫衣 |||verherrlichtes|Sweatshirt 本质上是一件华丽的运动衫，

but with a little bit of midriff showing, the cool bootleg, ||||||腹部||||喇叭裤 ||||||Bauch||||Bootleg aber mit ein wenig sichtbarem Bauch, der coole Bootleg, 但稍微露出一点腹部，很酷的盗版，

and seeing celebrities in some oversized sunglasses ||名人|||| ||Promis||||Sonnenbrillen und es ist spannend, Prominente in übergroßen Sonnenbrillen zu sehen 看到名人戴着超大墨镜

wearing it out and about, it kind of met tragen||abnützen|||||| es draußen zu tragen, es kam irgendwie zusammen 穿着它出去，它有点满足

that balance of just-within-reach pricing |||||Erreichbarkeit| 触手可及的定价平衡

and somewhat of a luxury item pooled into one. ||||||gebündelt|| 并且有点像将奢侈品集中在一起。

Kim: And it was seeing celebrities wear Juicy Couture |||||Prominente||| Kim：看到明星们穿 Juicy Couture

that really drove the brand's success. 这真正推动了该品牌的成功。

Around the time Juicy Couture launched, ||||时尚| 在 Juicy Couture 推出的时候，

tabloid celebrities like Paris Hilton 小报|||| Boulevardzeitung|||| 帕丽斯·希尔顿等小报明星

and Lindsay Lohan were becoming a national obsession. |||||||痴迷 ||Lohan|||||Besessenheit 和林赛·罗韩 (Lindsay Lohan) 逐渐成为全国热议的话题。

Tabloids like Us Weekly and People Boulevardzeitungen||||| 《美国周刊》和《人物》等小报

were documenting everything |dokumentierten| 记录一切

America's favorite stars were doing, 美国最受欢迎的明星们正在做，

and Juicy was able to take advantage of it. Juicy 能够利用这一点。

Because its founders didn't have the funds ||||||Mittel 因为创始人没有资金

for traditional marketing, they got creative, 对于传统营销，他们发挥创意，

gifting tracksuits to celebrities. 向名人赠送运动服。

While this is pretty common today, Skaist-Levy 虽然这种情况在今天相当常见，但 Skaist-Levy

and Nash-Taylor were one of the first to do it. 和纳什-泰勒是第一批这样做的公司之一。

They didn't find success overnight, but eventually 他们不是一夜之间就取得成功的，但最终

Juicy's tracksuits were being seen

on all the right celebrities.

DiNardo: The attraction to celebrity culture ||Anziehung|||

in the early 2000s is really what contributed |||||||beigetragen 21 世纪初期真正促成了

Juicy to become such a popular brand.

It really was the height of: 它确实是这样的：

"Celebrities! They're just like us."

Seeing Britney Spears go get a cup of coffee at Starbucks 看到布兰妮·斯皮尔斯去星巴克喝咖啡

in her Juicy Couture tracksuits, seeing Paris Hilton

shopping all over town in her Juicy Couture tracksuit. 穿着 Juicy Couture 运动服满城逛街购物。

Kim: Juicy's founders even kept a photo wall Kim：Juicy 的创始人甚至保留了一面照片墙

of every celebrity who wore their tracksuit.

Soon, Juicy Couture was exclusively sold ||||专门| ||Couture||| 很快，Juicy Couture 就成为

at upscale department stores in gehobenen Kaufhäusern 在高档百货商店

like Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue. |Bergdorf|Goodman||Saks|Avenue|Avenue wie Bergdorf Goodman und Saks Fifth Avenue. 比如 Bergdorf Goodman 和 Saks Fifth Avenue。

In 2003, Juicy Couture was purchased by Liz Claiborne, ||||gekauft||Liz|Claiborne Im Jahr 2003 wurde Juicy Couture von Liz Claiborne gekauft, 2003 年，Juicy Couture 被 Liz Claiborne 收购，

now known as Kate Spade & Company, |bekannt||Kate|Spade| jetzt bekannt als Kate Spade & Company, 现在被称为 Kate Spade & Company， for $226 million für 226 Millionen Dollar

to be paid over a five-year period. |||||||Zeitraum zuzüglich über einen Zeitraum von fünf Jahren zu zahlen. 分五年支付。

Juicy was colorful, fun, Juicy 色彩缤纷，充满乐趣，

and covered in logos during a time when people |||Logos|||||

couldn't get enough of showing off the brands 无法充分展示品牌

they were buying and wearing. 他们正在购买和穿着。

DiNardo: It wouldn't be a Juicy product DiNardo：这不会是 Juicy 的产品

without the Juicy label or insignia or logo of some kind. |||||标志||||| |||||Wappen||||| 没有 Juicy 的标签、标志或某种标识。

Skaist-Levy: It makes people happy.

Nash-Taylor: Juicy, it is, it's a happy brand.

People love it.

Kim: Net sales nearly doubled from 2006 to 2007. |净||||| |Netto||||| 金：2006年至2007年，净销售额几乎翻了一番。

By 2008, Juicy Couture had 100 stores

generating a total of $605 million in sales. 产生|||||| 总销售额达到 6.05 亿美元。

The brand also expanded to include jewelry ||||||Schmuck 该品牌还扩展到珠宝领域

and a successful fragrance line with Elizabeth Arden. |||香水|||| |||Duft||||Arden 并与伊丽莎白雅顿合作推出了成功的香水系列。

But then the recession hit. 但随后经济衰退来袭。

While most brands struggled following the recession, ||品牌|||| 虽然大多数品牌在经济衰退后陷入困境，

Juicy Couture's flashy branding ||华丽的| ||auffälligen| Die auffällige Markenführung von Juicy Couture Juicy Couture 的华丽品牌形象

particularly stopped resonating with customers. ||resonierte|| hat besonders bei den Kunden nicht mehr gewirkt. 尤其无法引起顾客的共鸣。

DiNardo: So, during the 2008 recession, DiNardo: Also, während der Rezession 2008,

fashion was at a point where the "it" bag 时尚界正处于一个“it”包的时代

was really not an "it" thing anymore. 已经不再是“它”的事情了。

It felt a little bit too gregarious, over the top, ||||||社交的||| ||||||gesellig|||

and proud in the wrong way, so things started to recede; ||||||||||后退 ||||||||||sich zurückziehen 并以错误的方式骄傲，所以事情开始消退；

not that people weren't shopping, 并不是说人们不购物，

but they weren't buying things that were so blatant ||||||||明显的 ||||||||offensichtlich aber sie kauften keine Dinge, die so offenkundig waren. 但他们不会买那些太明显的东西

as to what they were and how much they cost. was sie sind und wie viel sie kosten. 它们是什么以及它们的价格是多少。

Kim: The recession inspired a movement

towards minimalism, which was pretty much 走向极简主义，这几乎

the opposite of what Juicy Couture embodied. ||||||verkörperte 这与 Juicy Couture 所体现的完全相反。

DiNardo: Juicy as a label was all about

that flashiness and that fun. |浮华||| |Glamour||| 那种华丽和乐趣。

And so, there was a somberness to fashion, a seriousness, |||||严肃性||fashion|| |||||Ernsthaftigkeit|||| 因此，时尚有一种忧郁、一种严肃，

after 2008, and it really wasn't on-brand for Juicy. ||||||brand|| 2008 年之后，这款产品确实不再符合 Juicy 的品牌定位。

Kim: Sales fell 11% year-over-year in 2009. 金：2009 年销售额同比下降了 11%。

In 2010, founders Skaist-Levy 2010 年，创始人 Skaist-Levy

and Nash-Taylor left the company, 纳什-泰勒离开了公司，

citing a loss of ability to help their brand evolve. 引用|||||||||发展 nennen||Verlust||||||| aufgrund des Verlusts an Fähigkeit, ihrer Marke beim Wachstum zu helfen. 理由是失去了帮助其品牌发展的能力。

Sale numbers continued to drop as Juicy failed to keep up ||||||Juicy|||| 由于 Juicy 未能跟上步伐，销量持续下降

with the growing contemporary fashion market. |||当代|| |||zeitgenössischen|| 随着当代时尚市场的不断增长。

While labels like Alexander Wang |||Alexander|Wang 虽然像 Alexander Wang 这样的品牌

and Theory quickly pivoted to add |||转向|| Theory 迅速转向添加

more pieces to their collections, Juicy didn't. ||||Sammlungen|| 他们的系列中却没有增加更多单品，而 Juicy 却没有。

In 2013, Juicy Couture was officially sold

to Authentic Brands Group for $195 million. |真实|||| 以 1.95 亿美元的价格出售给 Authentic Brands Group。

The company has an eclectic portfolio, ||||多样化的|产品组合 ||||eklektisches| 该公司拥有多元化的产品组合，

including the licensing rights for the estates ||||||地产 ||||||Nachlässe 包括庄园的许可权

of Elvis Presley and Marilyn Monroe. 猫王埃尔维斯·普雷斯利和玛丽莲·梦露。

The group announced plans to close 该集团宣布计划关闭

all of Juicy Couture's US stores Juicy Couture 在美国的所有门店

but said it would reopen five to 10 ||||wiedereröffnen|| 但表示将在 5 到 10 日重新开放

as it rebuilds the brand. ||wiederaufbaut|| 因为它重建了品牌。

ABG later made a deal with discount retailer Kohl's |||||||折扣零售商| ABG|||||||Einzelhändler|Kohl's Später schloss ABG eine Vereinbarung mit dem Discounter Kohl's ABG 后来与折扣零售商 Kohl's 达成协议

to sell Juicy-branded products, effectively abandoning ||||||aufgeben Produkte der Marke Juicy zu verkaufen und damit die 销售 Juicy 品牌产品，实际上放弃了

the brand's veneer of luxury for many loyal fans. ||表面装饰|||||| ||Fassade|||||treuen| für viele treue Fans der Marke den Anschein von Luxus. 该品牌的奢华外表赢得了众多忠实粉丝的喜爱。

Despite its fall from department store to discount bin, ||||||||折扣箱 Несмотря на то, что компания превратилась из универмага в дисконтную корзину, 尽管它从百货商店跌落为折扣店，

Juicy Couture has been angling for a comeback for years. ||||谋求||||| ||||angelt||||| Juicy Couture strebt seit Jahren ein Comeback an. 多年来，Juicy Couture 一直在谋求东山再起。

A 2016 collaboration with cult fashion brand Vetements |collaboration||邪教||| ||||||Vetements 2016 年与时尚品牌 Vetements 的合作

re-sparked interested and lent Juicy some street cred. |重新点燃|||借给||||街头威信 |neu entfacht|Interesse||verlieh||||Cred 重新激发了人们的兴趣并赋予了 Juicy 一些街头信誉。

Kylie Jenner even posted a picture Kylie|Jenner|||| 凯莉·詹娜甚至发布了一张照片

wearing a pricey tracksuit from the collection. ||昂贵|||| ||teuren|||| 穿着该系列中一件昂贵的运动服。

In 2017, Juicy Couture appointed Hollywood stylist |||ernannte||Stylist 2017 年，Juicy Couture 任命好莱坞造型师

Jamie Mizrahi as its new creative director. Jamie|Mizrahi||||| 杰米·米兹拉希 (Jamie Mizrahi) 担任其新任创意总监。

The brand debuted its new collection ||首次推出||| ||hat debutiert||| 该品牌首次推出新系列

with a New York Fashion Week party 参加纽约时装周派对

with OG Juicy Couture lover |OG|||Liebhaber 与 Juicy Couture 的 OG 爱好者

and living brand embodiment Paris Hilton. |||Verkörperung|| 以及生活品牌帕丽斯·希尔顿的化身。

Pieces from the collection were available 收藏品可供

on Juicy's website, as well as Nordstrom ||||||Nordstrom 在 Juicy 的网站以及 Nordstrom 上

and Bloomingdale's, with prices ranging from $30 to $400. |Bloomingdale's||||| 以及布鲁明戴尔百货公司，价格从 30 美元到 400 美元不等。

This marked an upscale pivot for the brand |||高端|转型||| 这标志着该品牌向高端转型

after being sold at Kohl's since 2014. 自 2014 年起在 Kohl's 销售。

In 2018, Juicy Couture released its first-ever 2018 年，Juicy Couture 发布了首款

runway collection to show pieces 时装秀|||| Laufsteg|||| 时装秀系列展示作品

from its main contemporary line, Juicy Couture Black Label. |||当代|||fashion|| 来自其主打当代系列 Juicy Couture Black Label。

It also released two new cosmetic collections, |||||化妆品| 它还发布了两个新的化妆品系列，

which have been met with varying degrees of excitement. |||||不同||| |||||verschiedenen||| 引起了不同程度的兴奋。

As for whether we'll be seeing 至于我们是否会看到

Juicy's tracksuit everywhere again: Juicy 的运动服再次随处可见：

DiNardo: I think they could capitalize |||||利用 DiNardo: Ich denke, sie könnten daraus Kapital schlagen. 迪纳尔多：我认为他们可以

on those customers that were in their teens |||||||Teenager bei den Kunden, die im Teenageralter waren 那些十几岁的顾客

or late teens when the brand was popular. 或青少年晚期，当时该品牌很受欢迎。

Now those women are moms, ||||Mütter 现在这些女人都当妈妈了，

and they want something comfortable but pulled together. ||||||整洁| 他们想要一些舒适但又协调的东西。

It's quite possible that the tracksuit could be that item. 运动服很有可能就是那个物品。

Kim: Plus, Juicy Couture could fit right into Kim：另外，Juicy Couture 也可以融入

the athleisure market that's continuing |运动休闲服||| |Athleisure||| 运动休闲市场持续

to dominate the fashion industry.

And with so many other early 2000s fashion trends Und bei so vielen anderen Modetrends der frühen 2000er

coming back, who knows? zurückkommen, wer weiß? 回来吧，谁知道呢？

2020 could be Juicy Couture's year.